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Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Wood Plans

Try our Free Kitchen Pavilion Plans Set.  If you like it, be sure to come back for more. Thanks to our customer Jacob W. for creating this plan and submitting to us!


Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

This kitchen pavilion, with its smooth tilefloor, paneled interior and high cupola roof, is the perfect backyard room addition.  It is designed to hold everything a gourmet cook needs: a refrigerator, cupboards, shelves, a sink and over 14 feet of counter space for extensive food preparation. This 8- x 12-foot do-it-yourself kitchen unit is sheathed in T1-11 plywood siding, and fully trimmed for a professional, finished appearance. An attractive semicircular,
6- x 12-ft Redwood deck, featuring an outdoor bar, expands both the size and efficiency of the pavilion.

For people who love to cook, the kitchen pavilion provides all the conveniences of an indoor kitchen, without the cramped, stuffy feeling of cooking inside. All windows and doors are screened for exceptional air circulation, with a removable front window option for easy serving capability. This project is recommended for advanced do-it-yourselfers. Experienced builders can creatively add or subtract features to customize the kitchen.


Floor Construction
Quantity Material Application
5 Pieces 4-inch x 6-inch x 8-ft treated lumber floor base
124 Lin. ft 2x4 treated lumber floor framing
3 Sheets 3/4-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft tongue-&-groove Sturd-I-Floor floor
As Needed 16d galv. nails floor framing
As Needed 8d ring- or screw-shank nails floor

Wall Construction

660 Lin. Ft 2x4 (8-ft, 10-ft, & 12-ft) wall & roof framing
7 sheets 5/8-inch or 19/32-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft siding (T1-11) outside walls
7 sheets 3/8-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft siding (rough sawn) inside walls
As Needed 16d galv. nails wall framing
As Needed 8d nonstaining box, siding or casing nails outside walls
As Needed 6d galv. box nails inside walls

Roof Construction

6 sheets 1/2-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft APA Rated Sheathing roof & bar tile base
4 sheets 3/8-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft APA 303 Siding (rough sawn) inside roof
3 rolls 4- x 6-ft screen windows, vents, cupola
1 removable screen (opt.) front window
2 pieces 2-inch x 2-inch x 10-ft flashing outside main roof/cuploa joints, on top of roofing
2 squares roofing  
1 roll 15 lb. roofing felt  
2 pieces 1/8-inch clear plastic 30-inch x 72-inch cupola
2 pieces 1/8-inch clear plastic 48-inch x 48-inch cupola
2 pieces 4x8 lattice work lattice
As needed 16d galv. nails roof framing
As needed 6d box nails roof sheathing
As needed roofing nails  


98 lin. ft 3/4- x 4-5/8-inch window & door wrap
32 lin. ft 3x3 corner outside corners
48 lin. ft 1x8 top of outside walls
16 lin. ft 3/4- x 5-1/8-inch outside door trim next to corners
169 lin. ft 1x4 outside windows, bottom of outside walls,
inside windows, & outside cupola & lattice
32 lin. ft 3/4- x 4-3/8-inch outside & inside between doors
& front windows
16 lin. ft 3/4- x 4-1/2-inch inside wall/roof joint at building ends
24 lin. ft 3/4- x 5-inch inside wall/roof joint at building front & back
50 lin. ft 1/4- x 3/4-inch screen molding inside cupola joints
70 lin. ft 1- x 1-inch corner trim outside, on top of plastic & inside at
top of roof joints
114 lin. ft 3/4- x 1-3/4-inch pine
(ripping from larger pieces of trim)
inside door & cupola lattice
As needed 6d or 8d galv. finish nails all trim
150 sq ft 6- x 6-inch floor tile (opt.) floor & bar foot rest
2 32- x 81-inch screen doors  
2 pair 4-inch double acting door hinges screen door
As needed staples (& gun) screen
Constructing Deck and Bar
1 sheet 5/8-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft siding (T1-11) curved bar front
200 lin. ft 2x4 common Redwood deck
35 lin. ft 2x4 treated lumber framing under deck
As needed timbers or blocks under deck
60 lin. ft 2x4 clear Redwood bar top
As needed 10d nonstaining galv. nails nailing deck from behind
As needed 12d galv. or casing nails nailing deck from front
Cabinet and Shelves
Construction the following:
1 60- (W) x 36- (H) x 24-inch (D) cabinet assembly under front window
1 36- (W) x 36- (H) x 24-inch (D) left back corner cabinet
2 1-1/2- (W) x 36- (H) x 24-inch (D) partition next to sink for refrigerator
2 13- (W) x 45-1/2- (H) x 12-inch (D) upper cabinets
4 24- (W) x 3/4- (H) x 12-inch (D) adjustable shelves
1 24- x 60-inch front counter top
1 24- x 136-1/2-inch back counter top
Use these materials:
6 sheets 3/4-inch A–C plywood cabinets, partitions, shelves, counter
tops, bar top & bottom, & drawer faces
1 sheet 1/4-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft A–C plywood drawer bottoms & cabinet backs
1 sheet 1/2-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft A–B plywood drawer sides
6 sets 20-inch drawer guides  
10 handles (pulls) drawers & cabinets
As needed screws cabinets to wall connection
As needed paint or stain outside walls, inside walls, & trim
As needed deck seal deck
As needed exterior varnish bar top
Before You Start Building:
Read the entire set of building directions and study the diagrams before you start building. Build one section of the kitchen pavilion at a time; as you build, you may need to adjust your measurements slightly to compensate for misalignment. And do not throw away plywood or lumber scraps; you will need them later.

Check your local building codes to make sure you can construct the kitchen pavilion without a building permit. Be sensible; take safety precautions. When using power tools, wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from splinters and dust. Always follow the tool manufacturer’s recommendations.

Preparing the Site and Foundation:
Select a suitable site for your kitchen pavilion. Make sure the area is level, then lay down your foundation. A gravel foundation is easiest; just dig out 3 inches of soil, replace with gravel, level and pack. You may also use a concrete slab or concrete blocks.

Floor Construction:
Lay treated 4x6s flat on the gravel foundation, 36 inches on center. Then place treated 2x4s on edge, 16 inches on center, perpendicular to and on top of the 4x6s. Use two 2x4s, nailed together, on the long outside framing edges. Before nailing, check again to ensure that your foundation is level by setting a straight 2x4x12' across all the 4x6s.

Cover the floor framing with 3/4-inch STURD-I-FLOOR tongue-and-groove panels, making sure the long dimension runs perpendicular to the 2x4s. Do not push the T&G edges together completely; leave a 1/8-inch space at all edge joints to allow for panel expansion. Use 8d ring- or screw-shank nails every 6 inches along panel edges and every 12 inches at intermediate supports. If you intend to cover the floor with tile, consult the tile manufacturer for additional nailing schedule.

When you have completed the floor, read ahead. You may want to construct the walls, roof and deck on this flat, smooth surface.

Wall Construction:
Construct wall frames on a flat surface, such as a workshop floor or the pavilion floor. Lay out end walls first; they will be identical, except at the doors. See door detail. Space vertical framing 16 inches on center. Add additional framing for windows as shown in the following figures.

You can apply 5/8-inch T1-11 siding to each wall frame after you construct it (while it is still laying on a flat surface), or you can apply the siding to the frames after you have constructed and erected all four walls. Do not, however, apply siding to the top of the front wall frame until after the roof is installed. Nail siding every 6 inches on panel edges and every 12 inches on intermediate supports, using 8d non staining box, siding or casing nails. Be sure to cut out spaces for windows and doors before cutting and nailing the siding to the frames. Make sure the laps are correctly positioned. Siding should extend 3-1/2 inches past the top of each wall frame. This will eventually allow you to secure the roof to the walls.

To erect walls, set one end wall in place and brace it with 2x4s. Nail it to the floor with 16d galvanized nails, angled so they penetrate the outboard joist. Set the back wall, then other end wall in place, nailing to the floor joists and to each other. Lastly, set the front in, nailing it to the floor and ends. Remember, you will use the rippings from the walls to fill in the spaces above the windows, along the sides of the doors, and on the lower half of the front and back windows, so be sure the plywood edge laps are positioned correctly.
free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans
Decorative roll-up shades add color and privacy to the kitchen pavilion.

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans
The interior space measures 96 square feet, enough for two or more people to help with
food preparations.

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans
Redwood decking and a tiled bar footrest are just one of many options to complete the finished look.

Roof Construction:
The roof is constructed in two sections – the main roof and the cupola. Pre-assemble both parts on a flat, level surface before
installing on the pavilion.

Before you begin, you may need to slightly adjust the angles of the 2x4 roof rafters (see rafter detail).  Cut these pieces a little long the first time, then double check the measurements, as lumber can vary slightly. Double frame the outside edges of the main roof, making sure it’s square. Construct three 71- x 45-inch rectangle frames; one will be the center of the main roof, and two will frame the cupola.  To achieve a center roof height of 16 inches, set the center frame of the main roof on 16-inch blocks, then nail rafters to connect the outside and center portions of the main roof (see figures). Corner rafters A, B and G are notched to fit over the outside frame. Nail those first, then construct vents (C and D), nailing them together at the ridge, then to the frame. Then nail ridges, valleys, and supports (H, I, E and F). Measure, cut and fit roof sheathing, but do not nail yet.

With the help of some friends, lift roof frame onto walls. Nail to wall framing and siding. Now install the rest of the 5/8-inch T1-11 siding on the outside, along the window and door openings.

To construct the cupola, notch 2x4s, insert and nail to upper and lower framing and to other 2x4 supports. The notched 2x4s at each corner will extend 2 inches below the lower portion of the cupola (see figures); this will enable you to later slip the cupola over the main roof and nail securely. Nail framing members (Js first, then cut Ks to fit) to complete the cupola peak. Set cupola on main roof and nail. You may want to cover the cupola with a tarp until you can complete it.

Apply 1/2-inch sheathing to outside of main roof. Nail panel pieces in the following sequence: all 3s first, then 1s, then 2s and 4s. Space 6d box nails every 6 inches at edges and at intermediate supports.

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Finishing Walls and Roof:
(See figures for details)
(Complete in the following sequence)

1. Apply 3/8-inch APA 303 Plywood Siding to inside walls. Lay out and check dimensions before cutting. Do not forget to position half laps correctly. Cut openings for windows and doors before applying siding.

2. Paint outside and inside walls. For later convenience, you may also want to paint the trim pieces. Calculate how much material you will need for the trim; odd-sized trim pieces can sometimes be ripped from larger pieces, with some left over for the shorter (1-3/4-inch) trim requirements.

3. Apply window and door wrap.

4. Staple screens on the outside of back and end wall window openings. You may want to install a removable screen for the front window, so you can pass things from the kitchen directly to the outside bar.

5. Apply corner trim to all four outside corners.

6. Apply 1x8 trim along the top of the outside walls.

7. Apply 1x4 trim along the bottom of the outside walls.

8. Apply outside door and window trim.

9. Finish outside of main roof: Nail or staple roofing paper to sheathing. Then lay down roofing, starting from the bottom edges, fitting and nailing as you go.  Consult roofing manufacturer for specific application recommendations. The roofing will extend 1- to 1-1/2-inch over the edge of the wall trim.

10. Apply screens to main roof and cupola in-vents from the inside of the pavilion. Staple in place.

11. Line the inside of the main roof with 3/8-inch rough-sawn plywood. Cut, locate and nail pieces in the following order: M, L, P, N and O (see figures). Be sure the half laps on M and L pieces fit together; cut one pair at a time. Nail with six penny casing, box or finish nails. Use scrap 3/8-inch rough-sawn plywood for inside cupola, top and bottom trim.

12. Paint the 3/8-inch plywood inside the roof.

13. Apply 4-1/2-inch and 5-inch trim to inside wall/roof joint.

14. Trim around inside windows (except back window) and doors.

15. Trim inside vertical corners on the main roof and cupola.

16. Apply 1x1 trim to inside horizontal cupola/main roof joints.

17. Apply 1x4 trim to sides and top of cupola and lattice screens.

18. Apply 2x2 flashing to outside main roof/cupola corner joints.

19. Apply 2-inch trim to lower outside part of cupola over flashing.

20. Stain lattice work and apply to cupola and main roof vents from outside the pavilion (see figures).

21. Install 3/4- x 1-3/4-inch stops around lattice on cupola, and apply trim around lattice on main roof vents.

22. Paint cupola.

23. Cut clear sheet plastic for cupola skylight (see figures). Drill the plastic where it meets the cupola frame, then secure with stainless steel screws. Trim outside cupola plastic joints with 1x1 corner pieces.


Install Tile Floor:
Follow tile manufacturer’s recommendations for proper installation. You do not need to fully tile the floor; you can leave spaces under counters and cupboards untiled.

Install Screen Doors:
(follow manufacturer’s recommendations).

Cover Windows and Doors with Drapes:

Constructing the Deck:
Rip Redwood deck pieces on a table saw, using a 3/4-inch plywood jig as a guide (see figures). Use treated 4x6s or gravel as a base. Construct the deck on a flat, clean surface, such as the floor of the pavilion before the walls are installed. Lay all deck pieces face down and lay treated 2x4 framing over them. Nail, angling nails so they do not penetrate the surface. Use at least two nails in each framing board for a stable, solid deck. If you nail from the front, use 12d galvanized casing nails, angling nails so they do not extend beyond the framing. Allow a 5/8-inch space between the Redwood pieces around the outside edge, and 1/16 inches inside, approximately 16 inches from the center point. Use exterior deck seal on the Redwood to ensure a long lasting durable finish.

Constructing Bar:
Construct the 2x4 frame, using lumber and 3/4-inch plywood. Cut the 5/8-inch T1-11 to a length of 34-1/2 inches. Sawkerf 1/2-inch grooves along the inside of the 5/8-inch T1-11 siding piece, making sure not to kerf in the same location as a groove (see figures for close up detail). Bend the siding to fit the plywood bar frame, nailing siding to vertical supports and to the plywood base as you bend. Nail from center outward. Construct and apply bar top, then set bar base on the Redwood deck. Or attach to deck and front wall with fasteners. To construct the tile footrest around the bottom of the bar, nail 5-inch 2x6 blocks to 1/2-inch sheathing top and bottom pieces (see figures block placement). Bend a 1/4-inch plywood ripping for the front of the footrest; secure. Glue shims onto 1/4-inch plywood so the tile can be glued to the front of the footrest in three places.  Apply tile to the front and top, using exterior glue. Top tile will be 1/4-inch short; fill in extra space with grout. Be sure to follow tile manufacturer’s recommendations.

If you do not wish to use tile, you may cover the bar footrest with wood. Use kerfed, bended T1-11 plywood around the front and band-saw 2x12s to fit the top of the footrest, leaving a slight overhang.

Counter and Cabinets:
(against back and front walls)
Cut partitions and face frames for 36 and 60-inch cabinets. Face frames can be 1x2s or 3/4-inch plywood rippings. Dado partitions at shelves only, then lay partitions on edge and glue and nail shelves. Use finish nails on ends and six penny box nails inside. Dowel and glue all face frames to cabinets. Apply drawer hardware, then apply cabinet backs and 1/4-inch A–C in back of the drawers. Sand and paint or apply plastic laminate, then position cabinets in their proper locations. Custom cut the hole for your sink, adding plastic laminate to top and edges of counter if desired. Cut hole for grill, if desired. Our electric grill is shown in the photo. If you use a propane gas grill instead, enlarge the side windows so that at least 50 percent of the building is open. (This is required by the National Fire Prevention Association Code.) Screw on counter top from underneath at partition cleats.

Constructing Drawers:
Rip and cut to length 1/2-inch A–B plywood for drawer sides, fronts and backs. Cut 1/4-inch A–C plywood for drawer bottoms. Nail the sides, front and back together first, then the bottom. Sand, then apply your choice of drawer finish and hardware.

Corner Shelves:
Cut shelves and corner back pieces. Apply plastic laminate before assembling, if desired, or paint after assembling. Rip face frames, then nail together end and back pieces. Nail shelves in their appropriate positions (see figures). Apply face frames. Drill holes in assembly for adjustable shelves, then line up the shelves and drill holes in the wall so shelves will be
straight. Screw assembly to back wall. To finish the kitchen pavilion, trim around back window, ripping pieces to size (approximately 3/4- x1-inch).

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans
The Kitchen Pavilion offers more than 14 feet of counter space.

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans - Panel Layouts
Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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     1                                 2                                 3                                4 Cut 2 as shown             5 Cut 2 as shown
free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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             6 Cut 2                           7 Cut 2                          8                                 9                                   10

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plansfree outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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    11                          12                             13 Cut 2                     14 Cut 2                 15 Cut 4                    16
free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plansfree outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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         17                           18                             19                              20                           21
free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plansfree outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plansfree outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans
Not Shown:
3 sheets of 3/4” Sturd-I-Floor. 1 sheet of 1/4” A–C Plywood for drawer bottoms and cabinet backs. 1 sheet of 1/2” A–B Plywood for drawer sides.
Panels 17-21: 3/4” A-C Plywood

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
Floor Construction
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free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
Wall Framing - Back
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free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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                      Wall Framing - Frpnt                                                                                             Wall Framing - Ends
free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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                 Door Corner Detail                                                                                                   Back Corner Detail

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plansfree outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
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Wall Erected

free outdoor kitchen pavilion shed plans

This plan is continued on page 2.....

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