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This kitchen pavilion,
with its smooth tilefloor, paneled interior and high
cupola roof, is the perfect backyard room addition.
It is designed to hold everything a gourmet cook
needs: a refrigerator, cupboards, shelves, a sink
and over 14 feet of counter space for extensive food
preparation. This 8- x 12-foot do-it-yourself
kitchen unit is sheathed in T1-11 plywood siding,
and fully trimmed for a professional, finished
appearance. An attractive semicircular,
6- x 12-ft Redwood deck, featuring an outdoor bar,
expands both the size and efficiency of the
pavilion.
For people who love to cook, the kitchen pavilion
provides all the conveniences of an indoor kitchen,
without the cramped, stuffy feeling of cooking
inside. All windows and doors are screened for
exceptional air circulation, with a removable front
window option for easy serving capability. This
project is recommended for advanced
do-it-yourselfers. Experienced builders can
creatively add or subtract features to customize the
kitchen. |
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FREE OUTDOOR KITCHEN PAVILION PLANS MATERIALS LIST |
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Floor Construction |
|
Quantity |
Material |
Application |
|
5 Pieces |
4-inch x 6-inch x 8-ft
treated lumber |
floor base |
|
124 Lin. ft |
2x4 treated lumber |
floor framing |
|
3 Sheets |
3/4-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
tongue-&-groove Sturd-I-Floor |
floor |
|
As Needed |
16d galv. nails |
floor framing |
|
As Needed |
8d ring- or screw-shank
nails |
floor |
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Wall
Construction |
|
660 Lin. Ft |
2x4 (8-ft, 10-ft, &
12-ft) |
wall & roof framing |
|
7 sheets |
5/8-inch or 19/32-inch x
4-ft x 8-ft siding (T1-11) |
outside walls |
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7 sheets |
3/8-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
siding (rough sawn) |
inside walls |
|
As Needed |
16d galv. nails |
wall framing |
|
As Needed |
8d nonstaining box,
siding or casing nails |
outside walls |
|
As Needed |
6d galv. box nails |
inside walls |
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Roof
Construction |
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6 sheets |
1/2-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
APA Rated Sheathing |
roof & bar tile base |
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4 sheets |
3/8-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
APA 303 Siding (rough sawn) |
inside roof |
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3 rolls |
4- x 6-ft screen |
windows, vents, cupola |
|
1 |
removable screen (opt.) |
front window |
|
2 pieces |
2-inch x 2-inch x 10-ft
flashing |
outside main roof/cuploa
joints, on top of roofing |
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2 squares |
roofing |
|
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1 roll |
15 lb. roofing felt |
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2 pieces |
1/8-inch clear plastic
30-inch x 72-inch |
cupola |
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2 pieces |
1/8-inch clear plastic
48-inch x 48-inch |
cupola |
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2 pieces |
4x8 lattice work |
lattice |
|
As needed |
16d galv. nails |
roof framing |
|
As needed |
6d box nails |
roof sheathing |
|
As needed |
roofing nails |
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Trim |
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98 lin. ft |
3/4- x 4-5/8-inch |
window & door wrap |
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32 lin. ft |
3x3 corner |
outside corners |
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48 lin. ft |
1x8 |
top of outside walls |
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16 lin. ft |
3/4- x 5-1/8-inch |
outside door trim next
to corners |
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169 lin. ft |
1x4 |
outside windows, bottom
of outside walls,
inside windows, & outside cupola & lattice |
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32 lin. ft |
3/4- x 4-3/8-inch |
outside & inside between
doors
& front windows |
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16 lin. ft |
3/4- x 4-1/2-inch |
inside wall/roof joint
at building ends |
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24 lin. ft |
3/4- x 5-inch |
inside wall/roof joint
at building front & back |
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50 lin. ft |
1/4- x 3/4-inch screen
molding |
inside cupola joints |
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70 lin. ft |
1- x 1-inch corner trim |
outside, on top of
plastic & inside at
top of roof joints |
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114 lin. ft |
3/4- x 1-3/4-inch pine
(ripping from larger pieces of trim) |
inside door & cupola
lattice |
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As needed |
6d or 8d galv. finish
nails |
all trim |
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Miscellaneous |
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150 sq ft |
6- x 6-inch floor tile
(opt.) |
floor & bar foot rest |
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2 |
32- x 81-inch screen
doors |
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2 pair |
4-inch double acting
door hinges |
screen door |
|
As needed |
staples (& gun) |
screen |
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Constructing Deck and Bar |
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1 sheet |
5/8-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
siding (T1-11) |
curved bar front |
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200 lin. ft |
2x4 common Redwood |
deck |
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35 lin. ft |
2x4 treated lumber |
framing under deck |
|
As needed |
timbers or blocks |
under deck |
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60 lin. ft |
2x4 clear Redwood |
bar top |
|
As needed |
10d nonstaining galv.
nails |
nailing deck from behind |
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As needed |
12d galv. or casing
nails |
nailing deck from front |
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Cabinet and Shelves
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Construction the following: |
|
1 |
60- (W) x 36- (H) x
24-inch (D) |
cabinet assembly under
front window |
|
1 |
36- (W) x 36- (H) x
24-inch (D) |
left back corner cabinet |
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2 |
1-1/2- (W) x 36- (H) x
24-inch (D) |
partition next to sink
for refrigerator |
|
2 |
13- (W) x 45-1/2- (H) x
12-inch (D) |
upper cabinets |
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4 |
24- (W) x 3/4- (H) x
12-inch (D) |
adjustable shelves |
|
1 |
24- x 60-inch |
front counter top |
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1 |
24- x 136-1/2-inch |
back counter top |
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Use these materials: |
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6 sheets |
3/4-inch A–C plywood |
cabinets, partitions,
shelves, counter
tops, bar top & bottom, & drawer faces |
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1 sheet |
1/4-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
A–C plywood |
drawer bottoms & cabinet
backs |
|
1 sheet |
1/2-inch x 4-ft x 8-ft
A–B plywood |
drawer sides |
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6 sets |
20-inch drawer guides |
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10 |
handles (pulls) |
drawers & cabinets |
|
As needed |
screws |
cabinets to wall
connection |
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Finishing |
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As needed |
paint or stain |
outside walls, inside
walls, & trim |
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As needed |
deck seal |
deck |
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As needed |
exterior varnish |
bar top |
Before You Start
Building:
Read the entire set of building directions and study
the diagrams before you start building. Build one
section of the kitchen pavilion at a time; as you
build, you may need to adjust your measurements
slightly to compensate for misalignment. And do not
throw away plywood or lumber scraps; you will need
them later.
Check your local building codes to make sure you can
construct the kitchen pavilion without a building
permit. Be sensible; take safety precautions. When
using power tools, wear safety goggles to protect
your eyes from splinters and dust. Always follow the
tool manufacturer’s recommendations.
Preparing the Site and Foundation:
Select a suitable site for your kitchen pavilion.
Make sure the area is level, then lay down your
foundation. A gravel foundation is easiest; just dig
out 3 inches of soil, replace with gravel, level and
pack. You may also use a concrete slab or concrete
blocks.
Floor Construction:
Lay treated 4x6s flat on the gravel foundation, 36
inches on center. Then place treated 2x4s on edge,
16 inches on center, perpendicular to and on top of
the 4x6s. Use two 2x4s, nailed together, on the long
outside framing edges. Before nailing, check again
to ensure that your foundation is level by setting a
straight 2x4x12' across all the 4x6s.
Cover the floor framing with 3/4-inch STURD-I-FLOOR
tongue-and-groove panels, making sure the long
dimension runs perpendicular to the 2x4s. Do not
push the T&G edges together completely; leave a
1/8-inch space at all edge joints to allow for panel
expansion. Use 8d ring- or screw-shank nails every 6
inches along panel edges and every 12 inches at
intermediate supports. If you intend to cover the
floor with tile, consult the tile manufacturer for
additional nailing schedule.
When you have completed the floor, read ahead. You
may want to construct the walls, roof and deck on
this flat, smooth surface.
Wall Construction:
Construct wall frames on a flat surface, such as a
workshop floor or the pavilion floor. Lay out end
walls first; they will be identical, except at the
doors. See door detail. Space vertical framing 16
inches on center. Add additional framing for windows
as shown in the following figures.
You can apply 5/8-inch T1-11 siding to each wall
frame after you construct it (while it is still
laying on a flat surface), or you can apply the
siding to the frames after you have constructed and
erected all four walls. Do not, however, apply
siding to the top of the front wall frame until
after the roof is installed. Nail siding every 6
inches on panel edges and every 12 inches on
intermediate supports, using 8d non staining box,
siding or casing nails. Be sure to cut out spaces
for windows and doors before cutting and nailing the
siding to the frames. Make sure the laps are
correctly positioned. Siding should extend 3-1/2
inches past the top of each wall frame. This will
eventually allow you to secure the roof to the
walls.
To erect walls, set one end wall in place and brace
it with 2x4s. Nail it to the floor with 16d
galvanized nails, angled so they penetrate the
outboard joist. Set the back wall, then other end
wall in place, nailing to the floor joists and to
each other. Lastly, set the front in, nailing it to
the floor and ends. Remember, you will use the
rippings from the walls to fill in the spaces above
the windows, along the sides of the doors, and on
the lower half of the front and back windows, so be
sure the plywood edge laps are positioned correctly. |
Decorative roll-up
shades add color and privacy to the kitchen
pavilion.
The interior space
measures 96 square feet, enough for two or more
people to help with
food preparations.
Redwood decking and a
tiled bar footrest are just one of many options to
complete the finished look. |
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Roof
Construction:
The roof is constructed in two sections – the main
roof and the cupola. Pre-assemble both parts on a
flat, level surface before
installing on the pavilion.
STEP 1. CONSTRUCT THE MAIN ROOF.
Before you begin, you may need to slightly adjust
the angles of the 2x4 roof rafters (see rafter
detail). Cut these pieces a little long the
first time, then double check the measurements, as
lumber can vary slightly. Double frame the outside
edges of the main roof, making sure it’s square.
Construct three 71- x 45-inch rectangle frames; one
will be the center of the main roof, and two will
frame the cupola. To achieve a center roof
height of 16 inches, set the center frame of the
main roof on 16-inch blocks, then nail rafters to
connect the outside and center portions of the main
roof (see figures). Corner rafters A, B and G are
notched to fit over the outside frame. Nail those
first, then construct vents (C and D), nailing them
together at the ridge, then to the frame. Then nail
ridges, valleys, and supports (H, I, E and F).
Measure, cut and fit roof sheathing, but do not nail
yet.
With the help of some friends, lift roof frame onto
walls. Nail to wall framing and siding. Now install
the rest of the 5/8-inch T1-11 siding on the
outside, along the window and door openings.
STEP 2. CONSTRUCT THE CUPOLA.
To construct the cupola, notch 2x4s, insert and nail
to upper and lower framing and to other 2x4
supports. The notched 2x4s at each corner will
extend 2 inches below the lower portion of the
cupola (see figures); this will enable you to later
slip the cupola over the main roof and nail
securely. Nail framing members (Js first, then cut
Ks to fit) to complete the cupola peak. Set cupola
on main roof and nail. You may want to cover the
cupola with a tarp until you can complete it.
Apply 1/2-inch sheathing to outside of main roof.
Nail panel pieces in the following sequence: all 3s
first, then 1s, then 2s and 4s. Space 6d box nails
every 6 inches at edges and at intermediate
supports. |
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Finishing Walls and Roof:
(See figures for details)
(Complete in the following sequence)
1. Apply 3/8-inch APA 303 Plywood Siding to inside
walls. Lay out and check dimensions before cutting.
Do not forget to position half laps correctly. Cut
openings for windows and doors before applying
siding.
2. Paint outside and inside walls. For later
convenience, you may also want to paint the trim
pieces. Calculate how much material you will need
for the trim; odd-sized trim pieces can sometimes be
ripped from larger pieces, with some left over for
the shorter (1-3/4-inch) trim requirements.
3. Apply window and door wrap.
4. Staple screens on the outside of back and end
wall window openings. You may want to install a
removable screen for the front window, so you can
pass things from the kitchen directly to the outside
bar.
5. Apply corner trim to all four outside corners.
6. Apply 1x8 trim along the top of the outside
walls.
7. Apply 1x4 trim along the bottom of the outside
walls.
8. Apply outside door and window trim.
9. Finish outside of main roof: Nail or staple
roofing paper to sheathing. Then lay down roofing,
starting from the bottom edges, fitting and nailing
as you go. Consult roofing manufacturer for
specific application recommendations. The roofing
will extend 1- to 1-1/2-inch over the edge of the
wall trim.
10. Apply screens to main roof and cupola in-vents
from the inside of the pavilion. Staple in place.
11. Line the inside of the main roof with 3/8-inch
rough-sawn plywood. Cut, locate and nail pieces in
the following order: M, L, P, N and O (see figures).
Be sure the half laps on M and L pieces fit
together; cut one pair at a time. Nail with six
penny casing, box or finish nails. Use scrap
3/8-inch rough-sawn plywood for inside cupola, top
and bottom trim.
12. Paint the 3/8-inch plywood inside the roof.
13. Apply 4-1/2-inch and 5-inch trim to inside
wall/roof joint.
14. Trim around inside windows (except back window)
and doors.
15. Trim inside vertical corners on the main roof
and cupola.
16. Apply 1x1 trim to inside horizontal cupola/main
roof joints.
17. Apply 1x4 trim to sides and top of cupola and
lattice screens.
18. Apply 2x2 flashing to outside main roof/cupola
corner joints.
19. Apply 2-inch trim to lower outside part of
cupola over flashing.
20. Stain lattice work and apply to cupola and main
roof vents from outside the pavilion (see figures).
21. Install 3/4- x 1-3/4-inch stops around lattice
on cupola, and apply trim around lattice on main
roof vents.
22. Paint cupola.
23. Cut clear sheet plastic for cupola skylight (see
figures). Drill the plastic where it meets the
cupola frame, then secure with stainless steel
screws. Trim outside cupola plastic joints with 1x1
corner pieces.
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Install Tile Floor:
Follow tile manufacturer’s recommendations for
proper installation. You do not need to fully tile
the floor; you can leave spaces under counters and
cupboards untiled.
Install Screen Doors:
(follow manufacturer’s recommendations).
Cover Windows and Doors with Drapes:
(optional).
Constructing the Deck:
Rip Redwood deck pieces on a table saw, using a
3/4-inch plywood jig as a guide (see figures). Use
treated 4x6s or gravel as a base. Construct the deck
on a flat, clean surface, such as the floor of the
pavilion before the walls are installed. Lay all
deck pieces face down and lay treated 2x4 framing
over them. Nail, angling nails so they do not
penetrate the surface. Use at least two nails in
each framing board for a stable, solid deck. If you
nail from the front, use 12d galvanized casing
nails, angling nails so they do not extend beyond
the framing. Allow a 5/8-inch space between the
Redwood pieces around the outside edge, and 1/16
inches inside, approximately 16 inches from the
center point. Use exterior deck seal on the Redwood
to ensure a long lasting durable finish.
Constructing Bar:
Construct the 2x4 frame, using lumber and 3/4-inch
plywood. Cut the 5/8-inch T1-11 to a length of
34-1/2 inches. Sawkerf 1/2-inch grooves along the
inside of the 5/8-inch T1-11 siding piece, making
sure not to kerf in the same location as a groove
(see figures for close up detail). Bend the siding
to fit the plywood bar frame, nailing siding to
vertical supports and to the plywood base as you
bend. Nail from center outward. Construct and apply
bar top, then set bar base on the Redwood deck. Or
attach to deck and front wall with fasteners. To
construct the tile footrest around the bottom of the
bar, nail 5-inch 2x6 blocks to 1/2-inch sheathing
top and bottom pieces (see figures block placement).
Bend a 1/4-inch plywood ripping for the front of the
footrest; secure. Glue shims onto 1/4-inch plywood
so the tile can be glued to the front of the
footrest in three places. Apply tile to the
front and top, using exterior glue. Top tile will be
1/4-inch short; fill in extra space with grout. Be
sure to follow tile manufacturer’s recommendations.
If you do not wish to use tile, you may cover the
bar footrest with wood. Use kerfed, bended T1-11
plywood around the front and band-saw 2x12s to fit
the top of the footrest, leaving a slight overhang.
Counter and Cabinets:
(against back and front walls)
Cut partitions and face frames for 36 and 60-inch
cabinets. Face frames can be 1x2s or 3/4-inch
plywood rippings. Dado partitions at shelves only,
then lay partitions on edge and glue and nail
shelves. Use finish nails on ends and six penny box
nails inside. Dowel and glue all face frames to
cabinets. Apply drawer hardware, then apply cabinet
backs and 1/4-inch A–C in back of the drawers. Sand
and paint or apply plastic laminate, then position
cabinets in their proper locations. Custom cut the
hole for your sink, adding plastic laminate to top
and edges of counter if desired. Cut hole for grill,
if desired. Our electric grill is shown in the
photo. If you use a propane gas grill instead,
enlarge the side windows so that at least 50 percent
of the building is open. (This is required by the
National Fire Prevention Association Code.) Screw on
counter top from underneath at partition cleats.
Constructing Drawers:
Rip and cut to length 1/2-inch A–B plywood for
drawer sides, fronts and backs. Cut 1/4-inch A–C
plywood for drawer bottoms. Nail the sides, front
and back together first, then the bottom. Sand, then
apply your choice of drawer finish and hardware.
Corner Shelves:
Cut shelves and corner back pieces. Apply plastic
laminate before assembling, if desired, or paint
after assembling. Rip face frames, then nail
together end and back pieces. Nail shelves in their
appropriate positions (see figures). Apply face
frames. Drill holes in assembly for adjustable
shelves, then line up the shelves and drill holes in
the wall so shelves will be
straight. Screw assembly to back wall. To finish the
kitchen pavilion, trim around back window, ripping
pieces to size (approximately 3/4- x1-inch). |
The Kitchen Pavilion
offers more than 14 feet of counter space. |
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Free Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans - Panel Layouts
Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
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1
2
3
4 Cut 2 as shown
5 Cut 2 as shown |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
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6 Cut 2
7 Cut 2
8
9
10 |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
|
11
12
13 Cut 2
14 Cut 2
15
Cut 4
16 |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
|
17
18
19
20
21 |
  
Not Shown:
3 sheets of 3/4” Sturd-I-Floor. 1 sheet of 1/4” A–C
Plywood for drawer bottoms and cabinet backs. 1
sheet of 1/2” A–B Plywood for drawer sides.
Panels 17-21: 3/4” A-C Plywood |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
Floor Construction
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
Wall Framing - Back
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
|
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
|
Wall Framing - Frpnt
Wall Framing - Ends |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) |
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Door Corner Detail
Back Corner Detail |
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Free
Outdoor Kitchen Pavilion Plans
(Right Click on Image, and Select View as Image or
Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture)
Wall Erected |
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This plan is continued on
page 2.....
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