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Painting Walls
and Ceilings
Which Paint, Where?
• Selecting Tools for the Job
• Preparation
• Painting
• Cleaning Up
• Checklist
1. Which Paint, Where?
There are two types of paint available for interior
surfaces: water based or solvent based. Within each paint
type there are also
several finishes to choose from. Your choice depends on the
area that you are painting.
Water based paints, or acrylics, are the popular choice for
walls and ceilings. They are easy to apply, have very low
fume levels, are touch dry in 20 minutes, can usually be
re-coated in two hours and they clean up in water. Solvent
based enamel
paints must be cleaned up with mineral turpentine or an
equivalent product. They have stronger fumes. They are also
generally considered to provide a tougher, more hard-wearing
surface than acrylic paints. Enamels are often preferred for
areas that need constant cleaning, such as doors and
furniture or walls subjected to frequent dampness. Kitchens,
bathrooms and laundries may be worth the extra time that it
takes to apply enamel.
The finish of your paint generally depends upon the purpose
of the room you are painting. Gloss and semi-gloss finish
paints provide a hardy surface for high traffic areas such
as the kitchen, family rooms, bathrooms or children's rooms
where frequent cleaning is likely.
Flat or low sheen finishes are commonly used for more
formal, less frequented areas like dining rooms, bedrooms
and lounge rooms and where the light matt effect subdues the
atmosphere. For ceilings, try a special ultra flat acrylic
known as ceiling
white that helps to mask imperfections. Choose a formulation
that does not drip. A tint can be added to match your
overall color scheme. Some decorators suggest using a tint
that is a half or quarter shade of the colors on their walls
for the ceilings
so as not to have too sharp a contrast between the walls and
ceiling. Remember to record the formula of your paint tint
on the
paint so that you can re-order it at another time.
2. Selecting Tools for the Job
Make your job easier by assembling all the tools and
materials you need before you start. You don't want to
interrupt your work by having to dash off to your local
Lowes to buy the missing item.
Choose brushes with no gaps in the bristles and with a
springy feel to them. A sparse or limp brush will have you
dipping into the paint more often, will be hard to control
and will leave a streaky finish.
The choice of roller sleeve depends on the surface you're
painting as well as the paint you're using. For smooth
surfaces and higher gloss paints, use a shorter nap sleeve
(around 10 mm). For rougher surfaces and lower gloss paints,
use a medium nap (20mm). For very rough surfaces, use a long
nap roller (around 35mm). Select a roller frame with a
threaded handle if you want to fit an extension to it. This
will take the backache out of reaching ceilings and high
walls.
3. Preparation
Preparation is the key to a good end result. It not only
speeds up the finishing coats, but also lays a smooth base,
ensuring a fine result.
It's worth taking time to mask all windows, door frames and
light switches, etc, before you start painting - it will
provide nice sharp lines and means you won't get paint on
these areas.
New Surfaces
Even new surfaces need to be sanded smooth and then dusted
off. Prime raw timber surfaces with a primer product before
repairing any nicks with timber filler. Check the plaster
and plasterboard for any nail depressions or cracks, and
fill these with interior filler, overfilling so you can sand
it back to a smooth, even finish. Then apply an undercoat
like Dulux Undercoat and Wallboard Sealer. Dulux Mouldshield
is good to use in an area prone to dampness.
Painted Surfaces in Good Condition
If there is no flaking or peeling, wash the surface down
well with sugar soap to remove dirt, grease and smoke
stains. If there's any mould use sugar soap, then treat with
an anti-mould preparation. Check for any cracks and fill
with interior filler. Overfill, then sand to an even finish.
If the existing surface is an enamel paint, sand thoroughly
to remove gloss. Now undercoat.
Painted Surfaces in Poor Condition
Scrape away flakes and blisters and then smooth edges with
sandpaper. Touch up bare areas with an undercoat or primer.
Use a heat gun (but not around windows or you will break the
glass) or chemical paint stripper to soften the old paint,
then scrape with a scraping blade. Really bad surfaces
should be scraped right back to a bare surface. Apply an
undercoat to the bare surface.
Tape Test - If you're unsure just how bad the old
surface is, use the tape test. Scratch the paint and press
on a small piece of masking tape, then rip it off. If paint
comes off with the tape, the surface should be stripped
back.
4. Painting
Protect the floor and any furniture that you are unable to
move with plastic drop sheets. (Dripped paint may seep
through ordinary bed sheets and onto the surface beneath.)
Before you start, it is important to mix the paint
thoroughly. Use a flat paddle stick or ruler and stir
from the bottom upwards (not just around) until all the
paint is quite smooth.
Ceiling first.
Start with the ceiling. Paint the cornices with a brush.
Fill in the main area of the ceiling with a roller, working
from the darkest corner of the room towards the light. Work
in narrow strips so you clearly see where you stopped and
started. Paint around ceiling light fittings, then complete
the rest of that band. Do not load the roller too heavily or
it will drip down the roller frame.
The walls.
Start in a corner using a paint brush to cut into wall
edges, window and doorframes. Use a roller to fill in the
main areas, working along the wall evenly in an up and down
motion. Work from right to left unless you are left handed.
For window frames, doors and door frames, do the edges
first, then the face, returning to the edges to lightly
feather off any surplus paint with the tip of the brush.
You'll probably be using an enamel here.
5. Cleaning Up
Clean brushes and rollers using turpentine for solvent-based
paints, or water for acrylic paints. For brushes, work the
bristles
in the turpentine or water until all paint has been flushed
out. Make sure you get all the paint out of the handle, as
this will increase the life of your brush. Clean rollers by
flushing out under running water or by working turpentine
through the nap. Then wash in warm soapy water and rinse
well. Always store brushes flat or hanging up, never
standing on the bristles. Set rollers on end or hang them,
otherwise the nap of the roller is flattened.
Checklist
• Undercoat
• Paint in the finish and quantity to suit your job
• Paint brushes
• Roller frame and roller tray to suit
• Roller covers to suit roller frame and paint finish
• Extension handle for roller frame
• Primer or sealer
• Interior filler (for cracks and imperfections)
• Filling blade (for applying filler)
• Scraper blade
• Drop sheets
• Utility knife
• Sugar soap, sponge and gloves
• Stepladder
• Flat paddle or ruler
• Sandpaper
• Masking tape
• Clean up rags for spills and drips
• Turpentine (if using solvent-based paints
Paint Brushes, Paint Rollers and Paint Pads.
Even as we work and play our way through the high tech world
of the 21st century, the good old fashioned paint brush is
still the most preferred tool for applying paint in and
around the home.
1. Paint Brushes
The best rated brushes are those made from natural bristle,
with pig or boar being the most preferred. However as with
most things, you get what you pay for and natural bristle
brushes are usually the most expensive to purchase. A
tradesman painter mate of mine always used to say that good
quality brushes were like good wine - they improve with age!
His method of "breaking in" a new brush was to first use it
to apply primer and undercoats where it didn't matter when
the brush shed a few
hairs as all new brushes will. Plus as you use a brush, the
tips of the bristles become round and this gives a smoother
finish to your paint job. Cheaper brushes made from
synthetic fibers are also available and some are getting
almost to the quality of the natural bristle brushes.
If you are contemplating purchasing new paint brushes, first
spend a little time browsing through the selection available
at your local Home Improvement store. Take into account
quality, price and the job you want the brush to do.
You can do most DIY work with four sizes of brushes: 50mm,
25mm and 13mm for general work and a 100mm brush for walls
and ceilings. An angled cutting-in brush (13mm) is a useful
addition if you have a lot of work to do around window
frames. A cutting-in brush will help you get a nice neat
finish without paint getting on to an adjacent surface.
2. Paint Rollers
You can apply paint more quickly using a roller than you can
do with a brush and they are also less tiring to use.
Rollers come covered in a variety of materials to suit
specific jobs: foam for general-purpose work; mohair for a
smooth finish; shag pile for textured or roughcast surfaces.
The disadvantages of rollers are that they tend to use a lot
of paint, rarely give a truly smooth surface finish, and you
will still need a brush for corners and cutting-in work.
3. Paint Pads
My most preferred option for large surfaces is the Paint
Pad. These pads are usually made from a layer of foam with
mohair bonded to on to the surface. The pads in turn are
fitted to a plastic handle. Paint is poured into a tray with
a roller applicator fitted and the pad is drawn across the
roller taking up paint into the mohair. The paint is then
simply 'wiped' onto the surface being painted. A very easy
and clean method of applying paints.
Painting Exteriors
• Which Paint, Where?
• Preparation
• Applying the Paint
• Checklist
If you're painting a large exterior area, a little
psychology helps. Identify sections and then prepare and
paint one section at a
time. That way you set yourself intermediate goals, for
instance a wall at a time. One finished wall is really
motivating and you'll feel less daunted by the remaining
ones, which look shabby by comparison.
Use ladders with care. Secure extension ladders safely when
working at heights. Lean the ladder so that the base is 3
feet
from the wall for every 12 feet of height. Tie the ladder
securely at the top or bottom to stop it slipping.
1. Which Paint, Where?
You have a choice of two paint-types: water based or solvent
based. Water-based paints offer a number of advantages,
including easy application, rapid-drying and easy cleaning
up after painting. Gloss Acrylic paints are commonly used
for weatherboard homes, while Matt Acrylic paints are
popular on brick, cement render and concrete surfaces.
Generally, solvent based enamel paints are to be preferred
wherever a tough, hard-wearing, easy-to-wipe-clean surface
is required. They take a little extra time to apply but can
be well worth the trouble for doors, door frames, windows
and other high wear areas.
2. Preparation
Take a critical look at your house to see what needs to be
done. Look for any defects that might affect the final
finish. It's important to fix every fault before you begin
or the paint won't be able to do it's job properly. There is
no point spending time and money on a paint job that will
have to be redone because it is starting to flake and look
bad.
New Surfaces
New bare Timber should be primed first, then cracks and
holes filled with an exterior wood filler, sanded smooth and
dusted down.
Brick and cement render should be rubbed down to remove
loose sand, and cracks or holes filled with an exterior
filler, then sanded, dusted off and undercoated so repairs
won't show through. Bricks and cement surfaces are not
perfectly smooth,
so smooth sanding may not be required.
Metal gates, gutter and down pipes should be washed with
turpentine and coated with an all purpose metal primer.
Painted Surfaces
All peeling paint must be scraped or wire brushed away, then
primed. If you're unsure just how bad the old surface is,
try the tape test. Scratch the paint and press on a finger
length of masking tape. Then rip it off. If some of the
paint comes off with the tape then the surface should be
stripped.
For large areas, use a heat gun to soften the old paint,
making it easy to scrape off with a stripping knife. Use a
chemical stripper for around windows - where heat might
crack the glass.
Next, fill cracks and holes use Selleys Permafill on flat
surfaces and Selleys No More Gaps on the two joining
surfaces where
movement is likely. Sand the filler level with the rest of
the surface. Thoroughly sand the whole area to be painted to
clear
any uneven spots and five the new paint a slightly roughened
surface it can stick to, especially if the existing paint is
a gloss
enamel. Exposed nail heads, if they are not galvanized,
should be punched below the surface, and the holes filled
and sanded
smooth to prevent rust stains. Use a sugar soap to remove
all grease, dirt and dust.
Rust on metal guttering, down pipes, gates or metal window
frames (not aluminum) should be cleaned away with a wire
brush and the metal primed with Rustguard. Gutter leaks
should be repaired and sealed with a silicon sealant, such
as
Selleys Roof & Gutter. This will give a long-lasting and
weatherproof seal. Think about using a transparent sealant
that
will be virtually invisible.
3. Apply the Paint
If painting the whole house, start with the fascia board and
under the eaves, followed by the gutters. The walls come
next,
then the windows, sills and doors and finally the down
pipes. In this way, any paint that is dripped onto a wall
under a fascia or
gutter will be covered up when you come to paint the wall.
Use a roller, if possible, on flat surfaces as paint will go
on much faster this way than with a brush. Paint pads,
especially 100mm or 180mm sizes, are an excellent
alternative to brushes and rollers on smooth exterior
cladding and weatherboards.
After coating about 10 square feet, even out the paint by
lightly rolling across the surface with an almost dry
roller. Always work from the unpainted area back into the
painted area, maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Be
sure to prime any new or exposed metal on gutters and down
pipes before painting.
For windows, start by cutting in around the glass with a
small sash brush, then use a larger brush for the
surrounding frame.
Use masking tape along the glass edge to give a clean
finish. Doors are painted from the outside in, doing the
molding first. Paint the edges, then the face, returning to
the edges to lightly feather off any surplus paint with the
tip of the brush. You'll probably be using an enamel here,
so it's better to remove the door completely and paint on
trestles.
When to Paint
Always paint in the shade, never in the sun. Outside
painting should only be done in temperatures between 50F and
90F. In summer, the best way is to follow the sun around
your home and paint only on the shady side. A hot sun will
dry out the surface too quickly, which may cause the paint
to wrinkle.
4. Checklist
• Primer or Undercoat
• Paint in the finish and quantity to suit your job
• Paint brushes - a selection of wider and smaller brushes
• Roller frame and roller tray to suit
• Roller covers to suit roller frame and paint finish
• Extension handle for roller frame · Exterior filler (such
as Selleys Permafill for cracks and imperfections)
• Flexible sealant (such as Selleys No More Gaps)
• Filling blade (for applying filler)
• Heat gun or chemical paint stripper (for removing old
paint)
• Sandpaper (for smoothing surfaces to be painted)
• Drop cloths (to protect driveways, paths, etc)
• Sugar soap, sponge and gloves (for washing down surfaces)
• Stepladder
• Flat paddle or ruler
• Masking tape
• Clean up rags for spills and drips
• Turpentine (if using solvent-based paints)
Types of Timber Stains and
Finishes
There are a variety of surface finishes on the market that
offer protection and enhancement to timber while preserving
its natural look.
Interior Stains
Dye Stains give a beautiful result on pine and whitewood
furniture, cupboards, doors and paneling. Pigment Stains add
color without hiding the grain - they're available in
decorator colors as well as timber tones. Clear Pine
Finishes are
intended for new, untreated pine.
Clear Polyurethane Finishes
These are commonly used to seal and protect stains, although
the gloss, satin or matt polyurethane finish is attractive
in its own right, especially on floors, bench tops and
drawer units.
Waxes
Wax finishes offer the simplest of finishes, giving a
natural sheen to bare or stained woods. Not hard-wearing but
easy to
maintain.
Scandinavian Oils
Exterior Oils are similar to Scandinavian Oils. These
penetrating oils produce a soft, lustrous 'hand-rubbed'
finish on doors, paneling and furniture. After waxes, they
are the easiest to apply and maintain because the finish is
in the surface and not on top of it. You may need to apply
more coats of an oil than you would have to apply of a
polyurethane.
Exterior Timber Stains
These are used for gables, weatherboards, windows, fascias,
pergolas, decks and fences. These stains are lightly
pigmented yet semi-transparent, allowing grain and texture
to show through.
Acrylic Finishes
These are recommended for areas exposed to strong sunlight.
The tough, flexible finish of a good product such as Dulux
Timbacryl gives protection to a surface and needs less
maintenance than a stain.
Pick your Color
When choosing stain colors, remember that the shade may be
slightly different to that shown on the color chart. This is
due to the color and porosity of the timber. As a general
rule, the lighter the stain color, the more it will be
affected by the color of your timber. Additional coats will
intensify the color. Most stains darken as they dry.
Creating a Marbled Paint Effect
Materials Needed
• Acrylic Sealer Undercoat
• Acrylic base paint, color of your choice.
• Acrylic top coat, color of your choice.
• Standard roller (10mm sleeve)
• Sponge
• Goose or swan feathers
• Rubber Gloves
Note: The success of your special paint effect will depend
on the consistency of your technique. We recommend you
practice on trial samples until you are happy with the
effect and comfortable that you can duplicate the technique
on your final surface.
Prepare your Wall
All surfaces to be painted must be firm, clean and dry.
If the surface has been previously painted and it's in poor
condition, the area should be sanded to give a sound
surface. Fill in cracks or dents where necessary.
1) Apply Base Color
Using a paint roller, apply 2
coats of acrylic base color and allow it to dry thoroughly.
2) Roll on Top Coat Color
Roll on the top colored coat with a standard roller (10mm
sleeve) as if you were painting the wall (cutting in where
required with a paint brush). If working alone, only paint a
manageable area, approximately 3 feet across the wall, this
will maintain a wet edge. If two people work together, the
first person applies the top color coat using the standard
roller and the second person
follows with the sponge and dragging feathers.
3) Sponge Off Color
This should be done while your top coat of paint is still
wet. By using the sponge and feathers we recreate the
subtle veining of marble. The sponge should be
thoroughly dampened (squeeze out any excess water). Sponge
the wet paint to randomly remove some of the top colour,
thus revealing the colour underneath, and create a soft
cloudy background. Rinse the sponge regularly. Wear gloves
to keep clean.
4) Use a Feather to Create Marble Veins
Rework the same area while the Color Effects is still damp
to create the veining with feathers. Use Goose or Swan
feathers for best results. Lightly hold the feather by
the quill and pull it diagonally across the surface, turning
it from side to side. The secret to believable veining is to
have subtlety.
Creating a Ragged Paint Effect
Materials Needed
• Acrylic Sealer Undercoat
• Acrylic base color of your choice
• Top coat paint, color of your choice
• A collection of dry, lint free cloths sized about 0.5m x
0.5m
• Rubber gloves
• Paint Roller
Note: The success of your special paint effect will depend
on the consistency of your technique. We recommend you
practice on trial samples until you are happy with the
effect and comfortable that you can duplicate the technique
on your final surface.
Prepare your Wall
All surfaces to be painted must be firm, clean and dry.
If the surface has been previously painted and it's in poor
condition, the area should be sanded to give a sound
surface. Fill in cracks or dents where necessary.
Apply Acrylic Sealer Undercoat.
Note: Paints must be thoroughly stirred before and during
application.
1) Apply Base Color
Using a paint roller, apply 2 coats of acrylic base color
and allow it to dry thoroughly.
2) Apply Top Coats
Roll on another color of acrylic paint as your top coat with
a standard roller, 10mm sleeve as if you were painting the
wall (cutting in where required with a paint brush.) If
you're working alone, paint a manageable area, approximately
3 feet across the wall - this will maintain a wet edge. If
two people work together, the first person applies the top
color coat using the standard roller and the second person
follows with the bunched up rag or cloth.
3) Ragging
By removing the top layer of paint with a bunched rag, a
textured look of crushed velvet is created. The dry
lint free cloth/rag is held loosely in a bunch (not rolled
into a sausage). Use a cloth that is large in size - about
0.5m x 0.5m, rather than using a small cloth. Have a
collection of rags ready to used. Wear gloves to keep clean.
The bunched cloth should be lightly dabbed across the wall.
Change the shape of the cloth regularly. Once the cloth is
laden with paint, change to a new clean cloth.
We hope you
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